Here a few links and a photos for The Block and Flash Board. I hope they help you improve your climbing training and motivate.
The “Simplest” Finger Training Program
In this article, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sport physician specializing in climbing, outlines science-backed protocols for effective finger strengthening using hangboards.
Here’s an except:
“Based on 2019 review papers in the Scandinavian Journal of Science and Medicine in Sports* on isometric muscle contractions, I’ve created this program for climbers, both beginners and experts, looking to make finger training as simple as possible. No weights added, no scales to measure with, and no pulley system used. Just a hangboard with multiple edge sizes. This could be a board fixed to the wall of your home or even a portable one you use while on the road. My personal preferences are the Tension Climbing Grindstone(home), or portable Flashboard (road). I like the feel and comfort of the wood on my fingers and really appreciate their craftsmanship.” (Click here for a link to the article.)
To Pull or Hang? That Is the Question… for Endurance at Least.
This article was written by Dr. Nelson for the climbing training website, Training Beta. They also have podcasts on this subject as well as many other super informative training topics. To quickly highlight main idea, PIMA (Pulling/Pushing Isometric Muscle Action) type of finger training is an efficient way to train for strength and endurance with very low risk of injury. Injured fingers on the road to recovery may benefit from this type of exercise.
Here’s an excerpt:
“The most surprising thing discovered is that the PIMA type of task has been shown to have better force endurance to failure.” (Click here for a link to the article.)
Trying a New Innovative Hangboard Training Method for 30 Days – ft. C4HP
This is a link to the YouTube video by the popular Geek Climber. In the video, the Geek Climber consults with Dr. Nelson and shows his hangboard routine that uses the PIMA exercises.
This Average Climber Trained on a Hangboard for 30 Straight Days – ft. Peter Sebio
In this YouTube, the Geek Climber shows his amazing 30-day progression on a more basic style hangboard routine.
Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days
Here’s a YouTube video by Emil Abrahamsson that got popular for its low impact and simple hangboard routine. Emil’s progression was incredible so my climbing partner and I tried it. We saw strong gains on the edges we trained on and small gains on other edges. The increase in my crimp strength was the biggest benefit.
CLIMBING BREAKTHROUGH!? My Response to Emil Abrahamsson’s Crazy 30-Day Hangboard Routine
In this YouTube video, Dr. Jason Hooper, doctor of physical therapy, provides an insightful review and critique of Emil’s hangboard routine. It’s always good to look at many perspectives before you commit to a routine.
The Making of a ‘Rock Prodigy’
This blog post is by the Anderson brothers who wrote the influential modern manual to rock climbing training, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. I’ve read the book, and it is packed with information. The comprehensive manual begins with some physiology and offers specific training plans for power, endurance and power-endurance programs. The Beginner Hangboard Workout section outlines a basic and foundational hangboard workout for everyone.
How to Develop a Stronger Pinch Grip for Bouldering and Rock Climbing
Before the Anderson brother’s seminal training book, there was Eric Horst and his book, How to Climb 5.12, was the authority on climbing training. The book has gone through multiple revisions, and Eric has an updated podcast and YouTube channel that are amazing resources for climbing training. In the How to Develop a Stronger Pinch Grip for Bouldering and Rock Climbing, Eric shows a simple pinch program using The Block by Tension Climbing.